S.S. 2014 Collection
Etichetta Rossa (Red Label) is, first of all, a new concept: a streamlined prêt-à-porter collection with the aim of exploring the infinite declinations of one single item of womenswear every season. Spring/Summer 2014 debuts by revisiting the shirt, the archetypical and indispensable structure of any wardrobe. A collection that explores the infinite possibilities of the item, which is evaluated, transformed, revisited through the subversion of any classical canon.
The Spring/Summer 2014 collection by Etichetta Rossa is composed of six different groups, each one focusing on a structural detail of the shirt, which becomes pivotal for developing its declinations: the starting point is an iconic item, the most scenic and elaborate version of the shirt, which then trickles down into more diluted variations on the theme. The editing of the collection follows a deliberate scheme, a shared rhythm which immediately links each item back to a strong and recognizable concept; the fil rouge linking all items is the ribbon.
The first group presents geometric-cut shirts, created through an intricate patchwork of silk foulards with a street tag print: street art migrates from the cityscape (in this case, the tag has been created by a street artist who is a friend of the designer, on the wall of the legendary Milanese squat and independent venue Leoncavallo) and lands on silk foulards that are then cut as a kimono or as an overall.
In the second theme, the plastron of a tuxedo shirt is folded, manipulated, put upside down, until it becomes a surprising accessory, and a decorative element which can deeply modify the perception and the function of the other items of clothing it is worn with. The elegant organza jabots of the third group are redistributed on a different basis, applied to sleeves or cuffs, revisited as shoulders, for a deep transformation of the very essence of the shirt, which acquires new length and becomes a dress. Fringes made of organza tubes redesign the silhouette of the shirts; applied on the sleeves, on the shoulders or on the front, they create choreographic effects with each movement of the wearer.
The fifth group includes shirts in washed gazar and silk, with extremely rich volumes and geometries which remind of Victorian atmospheres but are still identified by a profound touch of contemporary design. Finally, quilted ribbons grow on top of each other, superimposing and morphing into jabots or suggestive shrugs. Sometimes only one ribbon is used, folded as an extremely elegant tie.
The pursuit of a synthesis is also evident in the choice of the fabrics and the colour palette: the selection of materials and hues is pared down, and its essentiality highlights the pureness of the elements, of the lines, the cuts and the volumes. Tones like black and ivory were chosen for the iconic items; their further sartorial declinations add pure white and sepia, next to the graffiti print. The range of fabrics goes from organza to gazar, from poplin to tulle and silk satin. The final result is an atypical universe, ready to astonish and to enthral the senses, where each piece becomes an aesthetic experience.